Shore Excursions

Arranging own shore excursions has pros, cons in Alaska


If you're one of the thousands of cruise passengers flocking to Alaska this summer, shore excursions are sure to be on your mind. And why not? Options -- from glacier walks to flightseeing tours -- are almost as vast as the 49th state.

Mainstream cruise lines' offerings pretty much mirror one another, with prices differing by perhaps a few dollars from line to line. Frequently, several different cruise lines even hire the same shoreside companies to conduct the tours.

Of course, if you don't want to go through your ship for shore excursions, you can easily arrange your own. In many cases, steering clear of ships' offerings may save you money.

But before making the decision to strike out on your own, weigh the pros and cons.

For instance, paying a little extra for a tour arranged through the cruise line saves you the headache of having to work out the details yourself.

Some tour companies also smooth the way for passengers who book cruise line excursions. For instance, in Skagway, White Pass & Yukon Railroad's train meets cruise ships near the dock to pick up passengers. If you book on your own, you have to hike to the train station. And when a 2,600-passenger ship arrives in this town of 800 residents, you can bet the trains are likely to be full. If you don't plan ahead, there might not be enough room for you.

Exploring solo

Alaska's towns, though, are easily explored on your own. And taking a city bus or trolley gives you the added freedom and flexibility of sightseeing at your own pace instead of spending only the time allotted by a tour company. For instance, in Skagway -- one of Alaska's most colorful and interesting ports -- you can hop on a city-run trolley for $6 to sample the full flavor of the Gold Rush town.

In Juneau, an all-day trolley pass is about $12. The trolley leaves from the tram station (by the cruise dock) about every half-hour from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. And in Sitka -- once the capital of Russian America -- a $5 all-day bus pass gets you everywhere that a more expensive ship's tour goes.

From Juneau, a visit to Mendenhall Glacier on a ship's tour is about $30, but you can easily see Alaska's only "drive up" glacier via a city bus tour. For $17.50, an aptly painted ice-blue Mendenhall Glacier Transport bus takes you to the glacier's visitors center, from which you can access easy trails and take in spectacular views. However, if you want to do a raft trip on the nearby Mendenhall River, you're better off arranging it through the cruise line, which works out the complicated logistics for you.

Fun in Ketchikan

Tiny Ketchikan is another town that is easy to discover on your own. If you're energetic, you can rent kayaks or just enjoy quaint Creek Street and local museums. Cruise ships offer a historical waterfront excursion via boat for about $40, but several passengers have reported it isn't really worth taking.

From Juneau, the popular salmon bake at Taku Lodge is accessible only by floatplane. In a scenic and idyllic setting, the all-you-can-eat honey-baked salmon on the grill often attracts a black bear or two. This excursion, offered by many cruise lines, costs at least $190 per person. In this case, however, not only will booking on your own cost $10 more, but even the tour companies that offer this popular excursion suggest you book through the cruise line to guarantee a spot.

Still too steep? Just three miles from downtown Juneau, the Gold Creek Salmon Bake at an old mining camp is $22. The easiest way to get there from the dock is to take a free shuttle, which runs from all downtown hotels. Most lines also offer Gold Creek as an excursion and jack up the price a bit. The only line that charges the $22 rack rate is Alaska Sightseeing Cruise West.

Glaciers are among the biggest draws for cruisers who go to Alaska. If you're saving your dollars for a glacier flight, spend your money in Juneau, home of the vast Juneau Ice Field -- the place for glacier walks via helicopter. Ships charge anywhere from $130 to $275 for these trips. You may or may not save money by arranging one on your own, but by doing the booking yourself, you may get your preferred time slot.

There's plenty of Alaska information available to help you decide whether to go on your own or take the cruise line's tour. For information about activities and attractions, call the visitors bureaus in Juneau (1-888-581-2201) and Ketchikan (1-800-770-2200).

Many Web sites also have information you can use to make cost comparisons. Here are some to check out: Alaska Tourism, www.state.ak.us; Alaska Visitors Association, www.visitalaska.org; Juneau, www.juneau.com; Skagway, www.skagway.org; Anchorage, www.anchorage.net.

Nearly every cruise line is adding new Alaska shore excursions, and kids-only tours are high on the list of at least two cruise lines.

Holland America, which has offered popular kids-only shore excursions in Ketchikan, Juneau and Sitka in the past, is adding similar just-for-kids excursions in Skagway. In all, the cruise line offers eight kid tours, including treasure hunts (not quite the Gold Rush), a bush-plane ride and sea kayaking. The shore options are for what the cruise line calls "tweenagers" in two levels -- ages 6 to 12 and ages 13 to 18.

Wild ride in Skagway

In Skagway, the Skagway Streetcar Wild Ride is an hourlong excursion through the historic Gold Rush town in a vintage automobile. The entertaining tour is led by a conductor wearing a turn-of-the-century costume like the ones worn when the Skagway Streetcar Co. was founded in the 1920s. The $24 tour includes a look at the biggest gold nugget in the world.

The other excursion, designed for older children, which costs $114, is the three-hour Dyea Mountain Bike and Raft Adventure.